Wines of the Day, Nos. 848 & 849

A German white, a French red, both suitable for vegans.

Lucky readers get a twofer today. A riesling from Germany’s Württemberg wine region and a cabernet franc from France’s Touraine region in the Loire Valley. Neither wine saw any oak or any other kind of wood; both were fermented using the natural yeasts on the grape skins; neither was fined using animal products, so people following vegan principles can consume without alarm. Both are, in addition, moderately priced and would be great additions to restaurant wines lists and by-the-glass rosters.

These wines were purchased locally.

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The Weingut Idler Riesling Kabinett 2022, from the Württemberg region of Swabia, was made from certified organic grapes — the estate practices biodynamic methods — was fermented by native yeasts, made in stainless steel and was bottled unfined, hence is suitable for vegans. The color is light straw-gold; aromas of lemon balm and jasmine, lychee, peach and apricot open to delicate notes of apple and spiced pear; the wine is just off-dry on entry, ethereally so, but segues dry from mid-palate back through the finish; it’s quite ripe and tasty, subtly imbued with touches of petrol and mint, and benefitting from bright acidity and a chastening element of limestone minerality. 10.9% alcohol. Delightful and charming, through 2027 or ‘28. Excellent. About $25.

Imported by Super Glou, Accord, N.Y.

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The Gaspard Cabernet Franc 2021, Touraine, Loire Valley, was also fermented by native yeasts — you can call it “spontaneous fermentation” — aged a year in concrete tanks and was also bottled unfined, so good for vegans. You could call this a “starter cabernet franc,” because it hits all the right notes for its grape and region without over-emphasis or undue concentration. The color is medium ruby-purple, with a magenta rim; the bouquet presents a classic array of raspberries and blueberries, violets, black tea, forest floor and old leather; these qualities align on the palate, where they are enlivened by vibrant acidity and a mild element of dusty, velvety tannins; the finish brings in graphite and a slightly meaty, fleshy aspect. 12.5% alcohol. Drink through 2026 with braised or grilled meats, hearty pizzas or pasta dishes, and bacon cheeseburgers. Excellent. About $25.

Imported by Jenny & François Selections, New York.

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