Wine of the Week

The Waterbrook Chardonnay 2007, from Washington's Columbia Valley, is completely delightful, but it's intriguing also -- at

least to geeky ol' me --for its unique oak regimen.

Forty percent of the wine is fermented in barrels, 60 percent in stainless steel tanks; after fermentation, the wine ages eight months in a combination of half Hungarian oak barrels…