Wine of the Week

This is what a pinot grigio should be, not a mouthful of bland, anonymous, vaguely citrusy stuff, but

round, full-bodied, yet delicate, a wine of expressive elegance. I'm speaking of the Attems Pinot Grigio 2008, from Italy's northeastern Collio region. (The estate goes back a thousand years.) The wine is dry, boldly crisp and lively, but close to creamy…