Wine of the Week

Here's a port that will warm the cockles of your heart -- whatever the hell those are -- in these

coming Autumn evenings, though I, true to form, am sipping it at 9 a.m. This is the Dow's Late Bottled Vintage Porto 2004. Dow's was established in 1798 but has been owned by the Symington family since 1961; beginning in 1912, the Symingtons had a 30 percent…