Wine of the Week

When I realized that this chenin blanc from South Africa's Western Cape region was a "wooded chenin," I thought, "Gosh, what I really want from a cheap chenin blanc is crispness and freshness, not wood."

The Golden Kaan Chenin Blanc 2007, however, is thoughtfully and subtly made, with 70 percent of the wine kept in stainless steel and 30 percent seeing F…