Wine of the Week

At first you might think that the Water Wheel "Memsie" 2007, from the Australian wine region of Bendigo, is simply charming, but a few minutes in the glass alter that perception. The wine -- a radiant golden blend of 44 percent chardonnay, 32 sauvignon blanc, 13 semillon and 11 roussanne -- is charming, but it unfurls detail and dimension that go beyond…