Wine of the Week

Here's a case where one doesn't worry about a California wine slavishly following its foreign model, in this instance the tempranillo-based wines of Spain, because this wine is so damned delicious and downright fairly priced. The Matchbook Tempranillo 2005, Dunnigan

Hills, is a combination of 80 percent tempranillo grapes, 10 percent malbec, and five pe…