Wine of the Week

You might think that with 14.6 percent alcohol the Gundlach Bundschu Chardonnay 2006, from the winery's Rhinefarm Vineyard in

Sonoma Valley, would be awkward and unwieldy, but that's not the case. The wine wears its alcohol as an expression of pent dynamism brilliantly balanced by crisp acidity and a profound mineral element. Yes, this chardonnay is lar…