Wine of the Week

"This is my favorite chardonnay," said LL. "Of all time."

High praise from a woman who is very critical of chardonnays, having lived in California long enough to become palate-fatigued and spiritually-wearied by over-rich, over-oaken and over-blown models.

We were having a pasta of grilled salmon with a bit of sauteed kale and leeks, and I had opened a bo…