Wine of the Week

Of the chardonnays from California that I tasted and reviewed recently -- most in my Weekend Wine Notes yesterday -- the Crossbarn by Paul Hobbs Chardonnay 2012, Sonoma Coast, is the one I recommend buying by the case. The color is pale gold; the bouquet is a delicate weaving of lemon and lemon balm,

jasmine, quince and ginger, with hints of tangerine, c…