Wine of the Week

The Vincent Crémant de Bourgogne, non-vintage, made completely from chardonnay grapes grown in the Côte Chalonnaise, south of

Burgundy proper, sports a new, simpler and slightly more elegant label. (And a slightly higher price than the last time I tried it. C'est la vie, n'est-ce pas?) The color is shimmering pale gold, and the tiny bubbles surge upward …