Wine of the Week

The mantra seems to be: "Wines of the Mosel are delicate and nuanced; wines of Rheinhessen and Rheingau are more earthbound." As is the case with much accepted wisdom, there's more than a little truth to this assumption, and yet here we have the Weingut Max Fred. Richter Mülheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Kabinett-feinherb 2011, from Germany's Mosel region, t…