Wine of the Week

The Sovrana Barbera d'Alba 2009, a single-vineyard wine made by the estate of Beni di Batasiolo, is a "new style" Barbera, that is, it's aged in small oak barrels -- 12 to 15 months -- instead of the traditional large old casks. The controversial process -- sides have been drawn,

insults hurled throughout Piedmont -- imparts a different range of aromatic…