Wine of the Week

You have encountered, I'm sure, punishing rieslings that startle and practically scour your palate with clanging acidity, austere dryness and

scintillating limestone elements. The Lucien Albrecht Riesling Reserve 2010, Alsace, is not one of those, though I admire the high-falutin' style in a masochistic way. In fact, my first thoughts about the Albrecht …