Wine of the Week

Here's a big-hearted, two-fisted zinfandel cut from the old cloth. The Rodney Strong Knotty Vines Zinfandel 2006, Sonoma County, draws grapes from an estate vineyard in the Russian River Valley whose vines go back to 2004, along with grapes from vineyards in the Alexander Valley. The oak treatment is judicious, 10 months in barrels, 71 percent American,…