Wine of the Week

With a pasta Bolognese, I opened a bottle of the Sartori di Verona Regolo 2007, Rosso Veronese. Sartori is one of those old companies -- it was founded in 1898 -- that undergoes a transformation by bringing in an outsider to shake things up, the

figure in this case being consulting winemaker Franco Bernabei, hired in 2003. Bernabei reduced yields, usuall…