Wine of the Week

Though it clocks in at a heady 15.1 percent alcohol, the Rodney Strong Estate Vineyards "Knotty Vines" Zinfandel 2008,

carrying a Northern Sonoma designation, does not come across as a blockbuster. In fact, it not only feels fairly mild-mannered but impresses with its balance and subtlety. True to its nickname, the wine is rather "knotty" in the dusty, s…