Wine of the Week

Michel Rolland has been criticized, demonized and vilified, but on the occasions I met and chatted with him, he seemed

pleasant and humorous. (He won't remember this, but we got sort of smashed and had a long witty conversation -- so it seemed -- at a lovely dinner at the late, lamented La Caravelle back in, oh, 1997 or '98.) Still, the ubiquitous French…