Wine of the (Mid)Week

When I first started trying a lot of wines in the early 1980s, among the most impressive were zinfandels and petite sirah wines from Fetzer Vineyards, launched when Barney Fetzer, who bought acreage in Mendocino County, released a zinfandel and a cabernet sauvignon from the

1968 vintage. Fetzer expanded hugely over the years and was in the forefront of s…