Wine of the Day, Nos. 275 & 276

I don't typically recommend rosé wines from two vintages ago. I mean the point of rosé is its freshness and immediate appeal, n'est-ce pas? Some rosé wines, however, are made of slightly sterner stuff than the usual ethereal, instantly accessible, quaffable models that so delight us and can age for a year or two beyond the Summer after harvest. Such is …