Wine of the Day, No. 92

I like the bonarda grape. Left pretty much to itself in the winery, given a minimum of oak exposure, it makes decent, direct and full-bodied wines suited to, you know, decent, direct and full-bodied food. As is the case with even the most unpretentious grapes,

bonarda, grown principally now in Argentina, possesses a rather nebulous or even confusing hist…