Wine of the Day, No. 875
A delicious, inexpensive white from Piedmont.
Wine prices have risen steadily for the past decade, as have the prices for just about everything else. The tariffs emanating from the White House so far this year have increased the likelihood of rising prices almost across the board.
Narrowing the focus considerably, let’s look at the Cantine Povero “Il Canapo” Roero Arneis 2024, made from arneis grapes grown on the Povero family’s estate in Piedmont. While other examples of the wine cost in the range of $19 to $25, this model comes in at $16. I call that a bargain.
The estate was founded in 1964, but the family’s roots in Piedmont, in the medieval commune of Cisterna d’Asti — pop. 1,257 — go back to 1837. Third generation Alessio Povero runs operations now. The family cultivates 50 hectares of vines (123.5 acres), farmed under certified organic methods, at approximately 1,056 feet elevation.
The wine is made completely in stainless steel vessels. The color is very pale straw-gold; the aromas are fresh and appealing, blooming with scents of apricots and pears, toasted almonds and a sort of hops-like woodsy-coniferous-minty aura; throw in notes of acacia flower, white pepper and dried sage, and you have a pretty darned seductive thing going on; this is spare, lithe and fleet on the palate, rolling on bright acidity and savory currents of lightly baked citrus and stone-fruit flavors; a tide of damp limestone leads to a bracing, slightly saline-seashell finish. 13% alcohol. Drink through 2027 or ‘28 with all manner of seafood stews and risottos, grilled fish and shrimp; you get the idea. Excellent. About $16, representing Great Value.
Volio Imports, Seattle. A local purchase.