Wine of the Day, No. 86

Opening a bottle of chardonnay from California is always a tricky proposition. Will you be getting a lithe, energetic, deftly balanced amalgam of fruit, acid and minerality or a heavy concoction as cloying as a dessert selection from the cart at a third-rate

continental restaurant? I swear, My Readers, that it boggles my mind to read the notices in the B…