Wine of the Day, No. 841

A superior albariño.

Here’s a 100-percent albariño wine not to be missed.

The Bodegas La Caña Albariño 2023, from Spain’s Rías Baixas region, derived from dry-farmed vineyards planted in 1970 and 1984, fermented by native yeast and spent eight months in a combination of 75 percent stainless steel tanks and 25 percent French oak puncheons and demi-muids, that is 500- and 600-liter barrels.

The result is a suave, sleek and sophisticated albarino whose layered character — while your eye is caught by the mild, medium straw-gold hue — bursts from the glass in a welter of lemon and quince, jasmine and honeysuckle, lime peel, honeycomb and wood-smoke; the touch of oak is feather-light, like a silken scarf, but lends a hint of spice to the pear and citrus flavors; the texture is lithe and supple, almost sensuous, but balanced by bright acidity and a limestone and breezy saline element from mid palate back through the finish. Really lovely. 13% alcohol. Drink with all manner of fresh seafood, grilled fish, shrimp risotto and the like, through 2026. Excellent. About $24, a local purchase.

Imported by Jorge Ordoñez Selections, Dedham, Mass. The label image is several vintages retrograde.