Wine of the Day, No. 753

The FEL Wines Pinot Noir 2020, from Mendocino County's Anderson Valley, is a beautifully expressive wine that unfurls its qualities in limpid layers. The wine aged 16 months in French oak, 40 percent new barrels, and while I thought, "Whoa, 16 months is a long time," the wine soaked up that oak and turned it into a subtle, almost subliminal sense of fra…