Wine of the Day, No. 745

When I poured her a glass of the Schnaitmann Steinwiege Lemberger 2018, she said, "This one hits all the right buttons." What buttons are those? A wine that feels fresh and appealing (at three and a half years old), that balances its sense of integrated fruit, acid and tannin with an exhilarating touch of wildness and foresty expansiveness, a wine that …