Wine of the Day, No. 7

If a pinot noir wine doesn't touch both the sublime of the ephemeral and the profundity of the chthonic, it is, to me, perhaps not a failure but a gravely lost opportunity in allowing the grape's complicated and paradoxical virtues to express themselves. Greg Bjornstad, winemaker for

Pfendler Vineyards, employs the panoply of craft, art and intuition to …