Wine of the Day, No. 648

One truism in life is that Champagne is not cheap. I mean, real Champagne, from that storied and highly codified region in north-central France. Even basic brut proprietary Champagnes from the famous houses can start at $50 or $60 a bottle. So, if you came across a well-made and appealing bottle of Champagne that cost $30, you would grasp it to your bos…