Wine of the Day, No. 603

So, what do you want from a wine made in northeastern Italy from pinot grigio grapes? A very pale straw-gold color, certainly; whiffs of hay, heather and acacia, notes of roasted lemon and grapefruit, a hint, perhaps, of green tea and spiced pear. How about a surprisingly dense, talc-like texture given litheness by bright acidity and a keen element of l…