Wine of the Day, No. 523

Lovers of old-fashioned Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon -- that is, not over-ripe, not over-oaked, not over-alcoholic -- should go online and

order some of the Hesperian Wines Cabernet Sauvignon 2015. It's not cheap, but it's an exemplar of what mountainside cabernet is all about. One hundred percent varietal, the wine was made half from grapes grown in t…