Wine of the Day, No. 493

One of the best nontraditional white wines made in California -- I mean not chardonnay, riesling or sauvignon blanc -- is the example of the kerner grape made by David Ramey for his Sidebar Cellars. The grape is a crossing, from 1929, of the red trollinger -- schiava in northeastern Italy -- with riesling. The Sidebar Kerner 2018 derives from grapes gro…