Wine of the Day, No. 373

The Raeburn Winery Chardonnay 2016, Russian River valley, could serve as a model for winemakers trying to fashion a

chardonnay that balances the bold, oaky California style with the more deft, elevating Chablis manner. The wine was barrel-fermented 75 percent in oak barrels-- French and Hungarian, 50 percent new -- and 75 percent went through malolactic;…