Wine of the Day, No. 297

At just under three years old, the Helfrich Riesling 2014, from Alsace, is drinking beautifully, with promise of

increasing its burnished character for four to six more years or so -- such estimates are always inexact, though based on knowledge, experience and intuition. Fashioned all in stainless steel, the wine offers a very pale straw-gold hue and spr…