Wine of the Day, No. 293

We recognize that the kings of Napa Valley are cabernet sauvignon and merlot, while the queens are chardonnay and

sauvignon blanc, but the storied region is home to a spectrum of interesting and intriguing grapes, especially in the white category. Think, for example, of the rieslings produced by Smith-Madrone, Trefethen and Stony Hill. Perhaps an improba…