Wine of the Day, No. 21

Here's a scintillating pinot blanc that will shiver yer timbers. It's the Lieb Cellars Reserve Pinot Blanc 2013, from the North Fork of Long Island.

It's made completely in stainless steel and does not undergo malolactic fermentation, so its freshness, its fervent crispness and blazing acidity are unassailable. The color is very pale straw-gold; aromas …