Wine of the Day, No. 204

Here's how I like my pinot grigio: lean and lithe, bright and vibrant, yet with a winsome,

pretty touch. The example in question is the Marco Felluga "Mongris" Pinot Grigio 2015, from Italy's far northeastern Collio region, which shares a border with Slovenia. Collio is a version of the Italian word colli, which means "hills," this rolling terrain being …