Wine of the Day, No. 14

Faithful readers of this blog -- bless yer pointy little heads and may yer tribes increase! -- know that California chardonnay and I have an uneasy and sometimes contentious relationship. I find too many of them over-blown, buxom, viscous and stridently ripe and spicy. On the other hand, chardonnays that display florid ripeness but manage to maintain an…