What Do You Want from a Glass of Wine?

The eternal question ...

Let’s say that you’re sitting at a table in a comfortable restaurant, having just ordered a potentially satisfying meal and a bottle of wine. You may, of course, build any kind of fantasy from this situation as you please. Myself, I conjure an obscure little street in an untouristed arrondisement in Paris, a small cafe on a corner, a deferential waiter, a spanking clean white cloth on a table just outside the door, a simple lunch in the offing. And a glass of wine. Call it white, call it red, call it rosé, but the question is: What do I want — or you or you or you — from this glass of wine?