Two Appealing Italian Reds: One Cheap, One Not So much

We dined with friends at Bari in Memphis Friday night, and I took along a bottle of the Lucente 2007, a cabernet sauvignon-sangiovese-merlot blend from Tuscany. Bari is primarily a seafood restaurant -- we also drank, from the wine list, the white Vietti Roero Arneis 2009 -- but the kitchen turns out a fine steak too. A special that evening was a bonele…