Three Renditions of White Burgundy: Chablis, Santenay, Montagny

This trio of white wines is made from the chardonnay grape -- solo, nothing blended. They are white Burgundies, though resemblances among the three wines are both strikingly similar -- same grape -- and discernably dissimilar -- different soil and terroir. Chablis, for example, lies 85 miles northwest of the city of Dijon; it's closer to Champagne and S…