The High Ones Die ... and Some Older Wines from Alsace
Jean Hugel died a week ago today, at the age of 84. As the head of an estate in Alsace that dates

back to 1639, Johnny Hugel, as he was called, helped lead a renaissance in Alsace after World War II, advocating, indeed working earnestly for the creation of a Grand Cru program based on vineyard quality and on a classification system for the region's sweet…
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