The Guises of Vinho Verde

I would estimate that most people think of Vinho Verde as a type of wine -- pale, fresh, engaging, quaffable, perhaps mildly effervescent and forgettable, perfect as a Spring and Summer aperitif or with seafood just pulled from the chilly waters of the North Atlantic and flung on the grill. All true, but Vinho Verde is actually a region, rather than a s…