Talk about Versatile

This week I treated the Hugel & Fils Tradition "Hugel"Pinot Gris 2005, from Alsace, rather differently than its venerable producer would probably envision, but I think the company -- which dates back to 1639 and is still owned by the same family -- would approve.

We were feeling a bit puny, so I went to a nearby Chinese take-out place and got our favorit…