Sonoma-Cutrer Emerges Again, at Least on My Radar

The chardonnay wines of Sonoma-Cutrer used to be ubiquitous on restaurant wine lists, at least in the 1980s and '90s. Perhaps that popularity caused the label to drop out of sight, familiarity breeding contempt. Even while praising the quality of the wines, critics regularly dismissed them as "food wines" and "restaurant wines," as if there were somethi…