So Tired of the Samo-Samo

So I open this nifty bottle of $20 cabernet from, say, Napa Valley and, let's see, the alcohol is 14.5 to 15 percent, it has

dollops of merlot and cabernet franc and a touch of syrah -- people are so clever nowadays! -- it smells like vanilla-laced, toasty oak and cassis and, you know, it's fine, just fine, but nothing very special or exciting. But, hey,…