Six Classic Napa Valley Chardonnays

By "classic," I mean, first, Napa Valley wineries founded before 1980 and, second, chardonnays modeled along principles of restraint,

elegance and devotion to the grape itself, not to heavy-handed processing in the winery. Most of these chardonnays see a sensible, if not discreet use of oak aging, and most of them did not go through so-called malolactic …