Producers of Chardonnay in California, Pay Heed to this Mâcon-Villages

I taste -- not drink -- a great deal of chardonnay wines made in California. Much of them are well-made and serve as exemplars of the grape,

but far too many reveal signs of being over-manipulated in the winery with barrel-fermentation, malolactic, lees stirring and long aging in barrel. The result is often chardonnays that I find undrinkable because of …