Pick Your Picpoul

The white picpoul grape is native to France's Languedoc region, where its high acidity -- the name means "lip-stinger" -- is an asset in that Mediterranean climate. It is mostly a blending grape, though it has its own AOC in Picpoul de Pinet, a roughly shaped triangle of about 3,000 acres that touches the lagoon of Thau, where the coast swings southwest…