On the Second Day of Christmas ... Another Champagne

In The New York Times this morning, food writer Alex Witchel uses the phrase "very, very dry, very very expensive" champagne, but very, very dry champagne doesn't have to be very, very expensive.

Example: The Laurent-Perrier Brut L-P (from a house founded in 1812), a blend of 45% chardonnay, 40% pinot noir and 15% pinot meunier that quivers with keen min…