Nine Excellent and One Exceptional California Pinot Noirs -- Anderson Valley to Sta. Rita Hills

It's no secret that the author of Bigger Than Your Head loves the pinot noir grape in all its geographic and most of its stylistic manifestations. The 10 wines reviewed today exemplify what I love about the grape and the wines made from it -- the combination of elegance and energy, the exquisiteness and the ethereal qualities, its ever-diverting and beg…